Jewelry has served many functions over the centuries. In ancient times among its' purposes were to ward off evil spirits, to distinguish between ruler and commoner, and often used as currency. During the Bronze Age, 3000-2000 BC, specifically on the Island of Crete in the Mediterranen, the Minoan civilization was known for their advanced technical skills in metal work such as loop in loop chains and highly detailed jewelry using such techniques as granulation and filigree. Following the Minoans was the Mycenaean civilization. While the look of the jewelry remained the same, the Mycenaeans were able to mine greater quantities of gold and in turn produce more gold jewelry. Around 1100 BC the civilization known as Mycenaea mysteriously disappeared and subsequently we see little jewelry produced for the next 200-300 years.
The Greek classical period (475-330 BC). The Greeks introduced the world to intaglios and cameos. The styles of spirals, simple flowers, insects and human heads remain constant over the course of this period, we also see the iconic naturalistic wreath emerge. The Greeks started to introduce garnets and emeralds into their jewelry, while their rivals, the Etuscans started to use amber and sapphires.
The Roman Republic (509 BC-27 BC) and The Roman Empire (27 BC-286 AD) Romans were known for crafting intricate jewelry designs in a variety of metals including gem stones found in the Mediterranean territories and from exotic imports arriving from Persia and India. Wealthy Roman men often wore jewelry indicating their social status, including rings adorned with their family crest that were often used to seal letters. In fact this era was the birth of the signet ring! Jewelry not only served as a decoration but often was functional used to attach pieces of clothing. It was not uncommon to see men of status wearing rings, pins, bracelets and torcs. Often these pieces were crafted in the form of a coiled snake, the Roman symbol of immortality. Jewelry was especially important to the women of Roman society as they were allowed to collect and keep it as their own property, separate from their husbands wealth.
Fun Fact: Roman dictator, Titus Manlius defeated a Gaul in 361 BC. After Titus murdered him, he took and wore his torque ( a large metal neck ring) as a trophy. From that time on, the torc became an emblem of his family and was awarded to soldiers who were brave in battle.
Photo: Collection of Belgrade City Museum